80 Hours in the Country Everyone Wants to Leave

We road-tripped across Bulgaria from Sofia toward the Black Sea, meeting welcoming locals and learning about the country’s history, culture, and population decline. We tested a coin-flip challenge that sent us to either the most expensive or cheapest accommodation in each city, including a frightening cockroach-filled hotel. We explored Bulgaria’s traditions, missed the Rose Festival parade, and ended by witnessing—and taking part in—the country’s firewalking festival.