Hunting The Caspian Sea Monster

We set off from Rostov-on-Don across southern Russia, visiting Gorbachev’s hometown and travelling through the bleak landscapes of Kalmykia while searching unsuccessfully for Kalmyk speakers. We then crossed into Dagestan, drove into the Caucasus, and hiked to the abandoned mountain village of Gamsutul, known as Russia’s Machu Picchu. We explored its ancient homes and imagined the lives of the people who lived there before returning toward the lowlands.